I was looking forward until we set off on my beloved South Moravia. This time, however, we went to Podyji National Park and stopped before the Austrian border in the village Hnanice. We left Peky (our 1992 Mazda 626) behind at the Hotel Hnanice Vineyards and from there we went down the yellow mark on Sealsfield’s Stone. We walked 17.5 kilometers all day.
On the way, we noticed that there is a suspended footbridge on our way, so we went out and walked back and forth. At that moment, however, we did not know that it was leading to a significant vineyard of Šobes.
Former mill Papírna
Our steps continued along the yellow mark with beautiful forests around the Dyje River. I noticed there were quite a few tracks in the area around the former settlement. Only the low walls were kept but we found one cellar.
Finally, we reached the most preserved former mill named Papírna, where the millrace was preserved. There was a seating area for the tourists, but otherwise it was covered with nettles bigger than me.
The Stone Sea
There were strangely arranged rocks in the sloping field of the forest beside the mill. These arrangements were named as the Stone Sea. Unfortunately, from now on, flies have begun to bite us. We went all the way and waved our hands. If it did matter to me, I’d rather go by the river.
The trail began to change in a very violent stony path, so I thought we should be at the finish. Here we finally met some tourists but did not look very friendly, so I did not ask them a question. A moment later, we saw another “hands wavers” in front of us, but they did not enjoy us because they said the flies were even worse. We thought, “It is not possible!” And continued on, even though Lukáš had the appetites to turn and go back.
After a few rises and descents, we finally reached our destination – the Sealsfield’s Stone. Well, it was nice and strange in its own way, but the six-kilometer journey was tedious. In my opinion, the Dyje river meanders should be seen from this perspective, but due to the grown trees, only the right or left parts of the river could be seen from all angles. At least those flies were not here.
We agreed that it looks like a “green Grand Canyon”. Everywhere there were forests, and nowhere human civilization.
Because we wanted to avoid the flies, we chose a different route for the return journey. After the green we came to Popice without the flies and still almost straight. We continued along the red to the Chapel of Panna Marie Bolestná.
Chapel of Panna Marie Bolestná
There is a well in the area of the Havranice Heath, but the water is not drinkable. Lukáš wanted to refresh, so he asked me to pump him water. Of course, I arrived and my body stopped feeling around, because I had no more energy. I did not have the food and had a drink at the bottom.
The landscape here was completely different from what we are accustomed to in the Czech Republic. We felt like in Croatia. Everywhere around us there was an arid landscape with dry plants, a small shrub appeared there, the road was made up of sand here, supplemented by protruding flat stones. At the Havranice Heath signpost we changed the tourist sign to the green. The forest that appeared before us saved me. Even though I was no longer able to perceive the surrounding nature as always, I noticed at least the rotten fruit on the ground.
Lukáš was already a dozen meters ahead of me, but on my exclamation “We are saved!” he heard. Above the head, apple blushed, but none was within reach. Lukáš ran up, shook the apple tree and grabbed a few apples on the ground, but almost all of them were rotten. But three of them were ok.
After a while, we emerged in beautiful vineyards with juicy grapes. Along the vineyards we went to the Lookout Nine Mills.
Lookout Nine Mills
This lookout fascinated us because it had a far greater view than Sealsfield’s stone. The reason for this rock outlook was, however, the fact that it is the famous Šobes vineyard located in the meandering of the Dyje River.
After a while we came back to the hotel, from where we went out and we wanted to dine here. However, the restaurant was closed for private events. So in the car we ate all the supplies of biscuits and went to Mašovice.
At the Vinice Hnanice Hotel there is a Vineyard bus stop, which takes you to all the wine-growing areas of Znojmo, where you can sweeten wine, see the cellar aisle and vineyards and continue with a special bus.
Natural monument Mašovice quarry
In Mašovice, we stopped at a refreshment stall, where mom and Petr were waiting for us. Then we went to the bathing quarry where there was very bad access to the water. But it’s beautiful there.
After swim, we went home.